Chemical Exfoliation
By Diksha PanwarWell,well,well! It’s time to stop ladies and gentleman.
Time to stop using physical exfoliators.
Physical exfoliators have been a buzz in the market for quite a while now,easily available,affordable pricing and oh that smooth skin that we get after using it,giving us the satisfactory feeling.Initially physical exfoliators made from ground of walnut shells were the best means to exfoliate.Then came the exfoliators with microbeads made up of plastic more soft and supple but a threat for the environment,causes a major marine pollution .Different countries are taking many steps to stop marine pollution.Recently The pacific nation of Palau banned suncream which contains oxybenzone as they are harmful to coral and sea life.
Other than the environmental degradation the Physical exfoliators can be bad for your skin too and I will tell you what and why you should stop using them.They cause microtears which can further cause acne or irritation,these microtears are generally caused by irregular size of the scrub particles that are present there. And if you use Physical exfoliators regularly for a large period of time they may damage your skin barrier as well which is more harm than good. So,what are the options to remove these nasty blackheads?
The answer is CHEMICAL EXFLOLIATION
2020 was the year of active ingredients for Indian market with so many Indian home grown brands coming out with products with AHA,BHA,PHA,Niacinaminde,Hyaluronic Acid,etc.
We will discuss about Chemical Exfoliation in detail. Chemical Exfoliation are of three types:AHA,BHA,PHA.
AHA are Alpha Hydroxy Acid made from sugary fruits.They are water soluble hence works on the topmost layer of skin making these acids suitable for the dry skin people. AHAs helps in hydrating the skin,brightening the skin and reducing the hyperpigmentation.AHAs are of many types:
- Lactic Acid
- Glycolic Acid
- Mandelic Acid
- Citric Acid
- Tartaric Acid
BHA are Beta Hydroxy Acid.They are oil soluble hence goes deep down in the skin making it more suitable for people with oily and acne prone skin helps in reducing sebum production,enlarged pores(Size of Pores cannot decrease but BHAs clean the pores which makes it look as if size is redcued),hyperpigmentation,blackheads,Milia,etc.The most common BHAs found in the Skincare Industry is Salicylic Acid.
PHA are Poly Hydroxy Acids.They are water soluble and work similar to AHAs only the difference is PHAs have bigger molecular size hence cannot go deep into the skin as AHAs and BHAs.PHAs are suitable for dry skin people, the people who cannot tolerate AHAs and who are just starting with chemical exfoliation.The most common PHAs available in the market are gluconolactone and lactobionic acid.They gently exfoliate the skin,help in strengthening the skin barrier,provide moisture and hydration to the skin and many more benefits.
The Chemical Exfoliation is good for skin and it helps skin in numerous ways but it might make your skin photosensitive that’s why it is always advised to wear sunscrean after Chemical Exfoliation. And your skin might purge when you start with Chemical Exfoliants but over a period of time it will make your skin healthy.